Crocosmia (also known as Monbretia as well as Copper tips) is a perennial plant that blooms from in July to September. It has eight weeks of blooms on established plants.
If your crocosmia isn’t blooming, it is probably due to too much fertilizer, stress on the water or insufficient sunlight. The addition of fertilizer encourages excessive growth of the foliage, which can be detrimental to flowers. Crocosmia also has additional flowers the next year following the planting.
Continue reading to find out how to apply the most effective methods to ensure that your crocosmia will have a greater chance of blooming in the summertime…
Too Much Fertilizer (Foliage Growth at the Expense of Flowers)
The most likely reason why crocosmia isn’t blooming in the summer is due to the fertilizer used.
The crocosmia that I have in my yard (in this picture) have never received any additional fertilizer , and are blooming beautifully every year.
A second fertilizer encourages growth of the foliage without affecting flowers This is the reason Crocosmia is able to grow with lush healthy, healthy foliage and a only a few flowers.
Crocosmia is a tough plant that can be found in a wide range of soils (as as they’re well-draining) even blooming in nutrient poor soils that are rocky in their home country of South Africa.
So, the use of fertilizers in large quantities are generally in opposition to Crocosmia’s preferred conditions since they aren’t heavy feeders the way roses are.
Instead of adding fertilizer, it much more efficient to improve the soil by adding compost, leaf mould , or well-rotted manure.
If your crocosmia has already been established (and it’s difficult to alter the soil) applying mulch in the spring ensure that your soil remains evenly moist. It also provides fertilizers to soil, which provides the ideal conditions for Crocosmia that allow it to blossom in the summer.
Reduce any fertilizer in your Crocosmia.
If you’ve applied fertilizer before, it’s unlikely that your crocosmia will bloom this year However, there will be plenty of green foliage, and the plant could be healthy and strong.
Crocosmia are low-maintenance plants that thrive when left unattended. If you are patient, you can increase the chances of crocosmia blooming next year.
To Much Shade (Flowers are best when they are when they are in complete shade, or in partial sun)
The amount of sun is a major factor on whether crocosmia flowers.
While it is possible for crocosmia plants to bloom in shade, and even in full shade, the flowers are not as prominent as the crocosmia plants that are in full sun , even within the same space.
To ensure that you get the most of blooms Crocosmia should be planted in full sunshine.
In humid regions (such such as Mediterranean and Southern California) the intense sun may reduce the duration of the flowers, and so in warmer climates, crocosmia can bloom longer if placed in shade.
Additionally, extreme temperatures and dry soil can cause water stress, which could hinder the blooming of Crocosmia.
Crocosmia is not generally particular about soil type, so long as the soil drains well However, in warmer climates , I suggest adding compost to the soil in order to keep moisture in the soil to prevent drought.
If you have crocosmia already grown in hot climates the addition of leaf mould, compost or well-rotted manure can increase the capacity to retain moisture in the soil, so that Crocosmia will bloom without stress from drought.
The need to water during the most humid times of the year could help keep the crocosmia in good health to ensure it has the nutrients it needs to show flowers.
Crocosmia May not Flower in First Year
Crocosmia is not required to display significant flowers the first year following planting.
It is typically due to the crocosmia needing time to adjust to their new environment.
Be aware that prior to purchasing your crocosmia, it’s been grown in a lush nursery or house with established temperatures soil, sun light and humidity, as well as watering.
The crocosmia plant is then placed in your garden, which could be in a different place from the conditions the plant was originally used to.
Crocosmia isn’t a hard plant to cultivate, but it could take one year or more to settle and adapt to the new environment before it blooms in abundance.
Best Practices for Crocosmia Flowering
With time, your crocosmia will bloom within the first year, as long as:
- Plants are best planted to be planted the full sunlight or in partial shade (full shade is not recommended).
- Gets a little extra water during periods of drought.
- It does not need fertilization.
- Ideally planted in well-drained compost ( can tolerate acidic and alkaline soilswith pH 6.5 up to 7.5).
Regular dead-heading of faded flowers encourages new blooms throughout the season. The less attention and fuss you give to crocosmia, the better it will bloom.
My crocosmias are blooming nicely for over a decade.
I have personally experienced huge success in not cutting the leaves back in the fall and leaving the crocosmia’s leaves to change color to create an organic mulch that allows for a more robust bloom every year.
The leaves may appear messy in the fall and, as a substitute cut the leaves when they begin to turn brown, and then make a compost-based mulch to cover the leaves in the fall.
This will help protect the bulbs from extreme winter cold, which can add fertilizers to soil that provides the crocosmia with a head beginning to grow and display flowers in the spring.
- The most frequent reason why crocosmia isn’t flowering is due to too much fertilizer. Crocosmia isn’t a huge feeder. A lot of fertilizer can cause the crocosmia plant to produce many leaves, but with less flowers.
- Crocosmia has more flowers when it is in full sun and partial shade. In full shade, there are less flowers, but plenty of greenery.
- Crocosmia might not bloom in the first year after the plant due to shock from transplants. Crocosmia generally blooms better next year following the planting.
- Crocosmia can be planted in full sun, with compost and in water during dry periods. Don’t add mulch or fertilizer during winter to protect the bulbs from cold to ensure they get an early start in spring.