How to Care for Snow Queen Pothos

The varieties of pothos snow queen is one of the most well-known indoor plant to keep in your home.

The dazzling heart-shaped leaves of this plant can be let to fall from a plant that is placed on a table or a hanging basket. Or, it could be placed on with a stake.

It is not only tolerant and tolerant, but it’s also easy to grow to expand the amount that your collections.

It is said that the Snow Queen Pothos can be an eye-catching sight. The plant is simple to grow by allowing 2 inches to drain out prior to every watering, and provide an indirect but bright light source and keep the plant humid.

Is the Snow Queen Pathos a Good House Plant to Grow?

I am a huge lover of plants with leaves that trail and are slender, with a leafy stem. the Pothos is the perfect match for my preferences.

Pothos leaves have heart shapes, however, the leaves are of The Snow Queen is splashed with distinct white variation that makes the stunning look, and a more.

If you don’t think a trailing plant is for you or you aren’t in the right location for it the plant can provide an architectural design if it is allowed to develop with support.

In addition it is beautiful throughout the year which makes it an all-round winner in my book.

snow queen pothos

Care Details Summarized

The First Steps to Your New Plant

If you purchase any of the plants, among the most important things you should ensure is that the pot it’s in has enough drainage.

It’s become very common to offer plants in attractive pots with no openings in their bottom.

It may increase sales, but it won’t improve the well-being the plant.

When you’re sure of the container of your plant, make sure whether there are bugs in the leaves. Then locate it in a spot that has bright, but indirect light . You are now ready to go.

The information you require to ensure your plant is happy is provided in the care tips below.

How to Care for Your Pothos Snow Queen?


The plants are a part of island communities of Polynesia in which they thrive in conditions of tropical climate. Their ideal temperatures are between 65 and 85 degrees (18 – 30degC).

This means that in warmer regions they will be able to survive outside, but they’ll need to be moved indoors prior to the frosts begin to fall.


The ideal situation is to ensure that your plant is in indirect but bright light. It is simple to supply in most homes and the most important aspect you should be aware of is direct sunlight falling upon the leaf.

A lot of light can result in the loss of white color which is the reason why is what the Snow Queen is grown for.

Type of Water

The kind of water you provide to your plant with is crucial. The majority of water used in the home is treated with chemicals, most notably chlorine.

In small amounts it will have no impact on the plant however, over time, it accumulates in the soil and may impair the pores of leaf surfaces of plants.

To prevent this from becoming an issue, you can use the rainwater that is trapped or sterilized Both of them are chemical-free.

If you don’t have any of these options tap water won’t make your plants tip over in a flash however, you must try to locate an authentic source of water that is pure. Water from a well-sourced source is fine.


Now we get to the critical issue of watering , and the leading cause of premature deaths in house plants.

Your Pothos prefers to be dry. If you are a bit overwatering you are likely to you’ll cause root rot, which will soon become an issue.

It is often thought that if you water more frequently, the plant will react by growing faster.

In reality, the reverse is usually the situation. The more harm that is caused by the overwatering process than through underwatering.

There is an easy method to determine when it’s time for you to water the plant.

The only thing you need is your fingers and the ability to insert it in the potting soil regularly.

The soil that your plant is growing in must allow to air dry out up to 2 inches prior to rewatering.

To determine if it is to determine if this is the case, make a poke in the ground between your second knuckle.

It is easy to tell if the soil is cold and damp, or if it is becoming dry. If the soil is damp, you should delay watering until the desired degree of dryness has been achieved.

If the soil is dry, place the plant on a basin or sink and then water it from the level of the top of the soil until the water flows out of through the holes in the bottom.

Then, let the excess water to continue draining away, and then return the plant back to its original place.

It’s that easy. The most important thing is to check the level of moisture regularly.

It is important to not get the leaves wet while watering and let the excess water be drained completely.

When the saucer of the plant gets full of water, it will cause slow draining and the drainage will not be adequate.


While it is tolerant of low humidity Although it is tolerant of low humidity, the Pothos can put on the most growth when the humidity is somewhat higher than what one would expect in a typical home.

Do not let this put you off, as it’s easy to raise the humidity levels.

A gentle misting of water every 10 days will ensure that the plant is in top condition.

Do not over-wette the leaves or spray them early in the morning to ensure that any excess water can evaporate prior to nightfall.

Other ways to increase humidity are to create plant groups and using pebbles in a tray.

By putting plants in clusters it creates a tiny microclimate, which is usually enough to increase the level of humidity.

Pebble tray is merely the act of filling the plant’s container or dish with pebbles, and then pouring water over them.

The plant will then be able to stand on the pebbles, but keep its base over the waterline. When the water evaporates the humidity naturally rises.

An alternative that is more technological is to buy an industrial humidifier. They are readily available from plant manufacturers and allow the plant user to control up and control the humidity with precision.

If you’re not planning to grow a significant amount of plants, I think this purchase is a good idea.

They are very flexible and I am certain you’ll find when you use any of the techniques mentioned above, the plant is perfectly content without the need of the use of artificial devices.


The plant should be accommodating when it comes to the kind of potting soil it is planted in. The majority of good quality garden soils are fine.

The most important thing to know is the fact that Pothos is not a fan of having being wet.

Your soil must be draining freely enough to allow water to drain away easily.

You can boost the rate of drainage in the potting mixture by adding one-third of perlite.


If the soil in your pots is in good condition, then they aren’t hungry plants to take care of. If you feed them with an diluted liquid fertilizer for houseplants every few months during the growing season, it should be sufficient.

A small portion of seaweed-based plant food is mild enough to not expose your plant to the risk of feeding too much.


This is where Pothos truly is at its best. The plants can easily take cuttings if there is a node in the stem.

Make a cut and place it in the water in a glass and in a few days, you’ll begin to see roots beginning to grow.

If the root system appears solid enough, you can plant your plant in tiny pots of potting soil. It will eventually become large enough to be an excellent gift or add to your own collection.

Since it is a clone of the plant that was its parent, it will bear the same label like the plant from which the cut was taken.

Another option to pot up in a soil-based medium is to keep growing your plant within water.

All you have be able to move your plant into an additional container when the roots begin to fill up the container, and it will live comfortably.

It is recommended to supplement your fertilizer every now and then.

When cutting, the cut should be placed on a light windowsill , but not exposed to direct sunlight.

If you’d like a more bushy plant, then go to plant two or three plants in one pot when you plant.

They are very accommodating, so you are able to remove excess material from the pruning process and, if there is a node simply plant it into the pot where the cutting was created.

This is especially useful for trailing plants because it provides a more bushy base from which stems can be trailed.


This is the place where gardeners make a mistake in their desire to grow in size their gardens.

The Pothos prefers having an elongated root ball, therefore, regardless of how tempting it might be do not repot your pothos in a hurry.

In the ideal situation, you won’t need to repot your plant until the pot your plant is growing in is filled.

You’ll be able to be able to tell if roots begin appearing through the holes at the bottom of your container, or if they begin trying to escape through the top.

At this point, you can pot the plant into the container which is one or two inches bigger than the current container.

The fit will be tight, but there will be enough room to cover the root ball with a potting soil that is free draining.

The danger of potting in the container that is larger than that of the roots ball is the extra growing medium can be sloppy and cause all kinds of health issues, including the most feared root rot.


In the natural setting The leaves of mature plants can extend to as long as 8 inches, and the plant could be able to spread out along the ground or climb on top of other vegetation for a number of yards.

In the home the plant will not truly mature and will be much easier to manage.

The pruning that needs to be carried out will help in order to confine the plant in the size you prefer.

The trailing plants, as an example can become excessively long in a certain point, and the extra growth can be cut off over the node.

If you’ve planted your plant using by using a stake or moss stick You will likely need to maintain it at an elevation that is not more than the support.

Make use of sterile scissors or secateurs to cut the desired area. the ideal time to trim is in late spring, when the plant is just finishing its growth expansion.

The cuttings to create new plants or create an even more robust plant at the base of your parent.

Another reason to prune would be when leaves are yellow or have been damaged by any means.

The leaves can be removed and then discarded in order to maintain the plants looking neat and neat.


In the house it is grown to enjoy its beautiful foliage. We have observed the foliage is never the size that it would be on an adult plant, so flowering is highly unlikely.

Wild, they put out what they call spathes, rather than real flowers.

Spathes are colorless leaf that is surrounded by an erect spike, on which are numerous tiny flowers that are almost impossible to identify.

If you reside in a region that is warm (US hardiness zones 10-11) you can let your plant be grown outdoors in the summer.

There is a chance that the plant will flower under these conditions, but for all intents and purposes they should be considered foliage plants.

You might also like: Snow Queen vs. Marble Queen Pothos (Differences and similarities)

Common Snow Queen Pothos Problems

Now, we’ll examine some of the issues you might face in relation to your Pothos.

The list might seem somewhat daunting, but be sure that they are among the most easy plants to cultivate.

The following information will help you to spot potential issues before the likelihood that you encounter them and you’ll see that they are all able to be fixed.

The most important thing is to check your plants regularly to ensure that any issues that arise can be taken care of before they become serious problems.



There are at most six thousand varieties of thrips, but the ones that you’re concerned with are small black bugs with slim waists.

In the outdoors the population is usually controlled by predators.

The entire life-cycle of egg-to-adult only takes about a week and within the safe indoor environment, they can reproduce rapidly, without any threats that they would typically encounter.

They take on plants by sucking the sap out of the leaves and stems The first time you are aware of them is when you notice the silvery grey mark in the leaf.

They are able to quickly cause a plant to weaken and could cause its death or even allow for the spread of other illnesses. The good thing is that they’re easy to eliminate.

The best place to begin is to move your plant outside or put it in the shower to wash it thoroughly. This will wash a lot of them out.

Then, clean the leaves clean with insecticide soap or neem oil. Both are safe for pets as well as humans, and will quickly bring even the most severe infestations under control.

It is also possible to put sticky traps in the close vicinity of your plants, and this will stop the spread of pests.

Mealy Bugs

These tiny pests are just one-tenth of an inch in length and therefore they are able to escape detection very easily.

They look like tiny pieces of white or cotton wool powder. Similar to thrips, they live by sucking sap from the plant.

The positive side is that they are among the easiest bugs to eliminate. A soft rag or cue-tip that has been dipped in rubbing alcohol and applied to them will get rid of undesirable guests.


A spray every week with insecticidal soap can keep your plants looking nice and will help get rid of unwanted pests. To further strengthen this treatment spray your leaves with neem oil once every two months.

The most effective method of prevention is through the close monitoring. Since both insects are difficult to spot using magnifying glasses can help. Beware of introducing pests onto new flowers or bouquets of cut flowers.


Bacterial Leaf Spot

The disease is evident through the appearance of dry marks on leaves that look similar to blisters.

They then be surrounded by an orange shimmer. The problem might not be your fault but it could be due to soil-based bacteria.

First, remove the plant from the area to stop spreading the virus. Then, remove any damaged plants.

The plant could begin to recover on its own , but there is no solution and should it continue to degrade, eliminate it as well as the soil it’s growing in. Do not add any of these to your garden compost.

Root Rot

It is usually caused by excessive watering. If leaves begin to turn yellow, and then become soggy, it is likely to be the cause.

  • First, remove the plant out of its container and let it to air dry out. It could take up to three days.
  • Then, trim away the roots that are brown or spongy until you have the healthy, clean plant material. Make sure to clean your secateurs or scissors after the procedure.
  • Repot the plant in new potting soil that has been sterilized, but do not water it for at least several days, and only after 2 inches over the soil has been dried out.

The plant will eventually recover however, be aware of the watering schedule following that.

Black Spots on Leaves

The marks appear like dark blemishes or bruises and indicate that the person who suffers from Pathos is suffering from a fungal infection known as Phytophthora.

Take care to dispose of any leaf material that is damaged and then spray it with the fungicide of your plant.

Leaves Turning Yellow

It could be due to the plant being overwatered or receives too much light.

I would suggest that you first think about overwatering as this is the most dangerous of the two options.

The plants that are overwatered soon develop root rot, which could quickly lead to a fatal disaster.

When the ground is sloppy or smells like marsh, it is likely that overwatering is the cause.

Let the soil dry and then apply the irrigation system we’ve previously talked about.

In the case of serious problems it is possible to repotter using the method I described in relation to root rot.

If this isn’t the case, just shift the plant to a more shaded location and then cut off the leaves that are yellow. The plant will quickly bounce back.

Leaves Curling and Turning Dry

However, overwatering isn’t the only danger for your Pothos. Although it is less frequent is also an issue.

The evidence of the issue the issue is apparent in the form of a distinct curling of leaves, which will be followed by sharp brown marks, usually on the leaf’s margins.

Soak the plant, return to a regular watering schedule. Make sure that the plant isn’t receiving too much sun.

Brown Spots on Leaves

This is another warning sign that you’re overwatering. The plant is unable to handle the extra water that is accumulating at its roots, and this leads to a decline of its capacity to deliver nutrients to its leaves.

If the cause is overwatering then the spots will be followed by a flaccid appearance on the leaves, which is soon followed by the leaves wilting.

Stop watering and let it to air dry out. If the plant does not appear to be recovering within a few days then you can repot it according to the procedure described in root rot.

Check out my other article about how to treat brown spots in Pothos to eliminate the issue.


There is no escaping about the fact that leaves from the Pothos family can be harmful for pets and children.

It is only an issue when the leaves are consumed and shouldn’t deter you from keeping the plant.

It is enough to be aware of the potential and take the appropriate steps when children who are very young or pets that eat leaves are likely to be around. The toxicity cannot be transmitted through the simple act of touching leaves.

Final Care Tips

  • The most significant issue is overwatering. you’re likely to encounter. Make sure you follow a proper watering schedule and monitor the levels of moisture in the soil regularly and you won’t be in trouble.
  • While there are a few of insects that would love to take sap out of your Pothos but they are very few in number and simple to manage. A keen eye is essential to stop the pests from establishing.
  • Limit your feeding to the minimum.
  • They like bright light, but not direct sunlight.
  • Do not let the humidity drop to low levels.
  • Repot only when it is fully refilled in the container it is in.
  • If you are repotting, make sure to use an potting mix that is free draining. It is possible to enhance this by adding perlite or any other substance that speeds up the rate of drainage.
  • The plant can tolerate an extensive temperature range However, if you decide to put it outside in the summer, make sure to keep it away from direct sunlight and bring it inside prior to the first frosts forming.
  • If you are bringing your plant indoors after a time outside, or purchasing a new plant, make sure that there are no insects on it prior to taking it back to the home.

Key Takeaways

The Snow Queen Pothos is among my most loved house plants. It’s low-maintenance and it is an attractive and versatile plant that can be grown in hanging containers or used as an upright architectural pleasure.



Went from a bad gardener to a half-decent one over 10+ years. Super happy to share my tips and tricks with you :)